Below is a brief discussion of Bills' core fabrics. Each fabric is graded on a scale of 1-5 for its appropriateness for 4 different occasions: Business Casual, Golfing, a Yacht Christening, and Lumberjacking

8.5 oz. Twills

This is, by far, Bills Khakis' best-selling pant, and for good reason. It was their first khaki, it comes in every model, and it is available in a variety of colors. The 8.5 oz. Twill is that "army-weight" khaki by which we mean the cloth is thick and durable. Compared to the Lightweight Cotton Poplin, the heavier twills do not wrinkle as easily, but do not mistake these for your more synthetic "wrinkle-free" pants; these are 100% cotton, and if you stuff them in a pint glass, they'll come out wrinkled. For most men, assuming waist size stays somewhat constant (and we recognize that is a big "if"), these pants should last a lifetime.

Lightweight Cotton Poplin

Definitely a summer-weight khaki weighing in at 5.6 oz. The poplin is a very light, soft-to-the-touch pant that is perfect for warmer temperatures. The 100% cotton poplins arrive professionally pre-washed to stabilize sizinbg. These will wrinkle more easily than the Twills but they're your best protection from the heat.

Chamois Cloth

The Chamois Cloth, despite its name, should not be used to dry your car. The hand is dramatically softer and more refined than the the original 8.5oz Twill, making them a solid choice for any event that, in the words of Bills Khakis, "requires more polish than grit". The cotton comes in at 6.1 oz making it slightly heavier than the Poplin, but lighter than the classic Twill.

Bullard Cloth

For the 15th Anniversary of Bills Khakis, the company introduced a Limited Edition pant that was signed on the inside pocket by Bill Thomas, the Founder of the company. The pant was so popular, that they decided to use the cloth for the Bullard Field Pant. It is a 10.5 oz. fabric, so it is the heaviest in the line amongst khakis (some cords are technically heavier). Make no mistake, this is a Fall- or Winter-weight khaki for those that like their clothes to wear like iron (metaphorically).

Driving Twills

The Driving Twill was introduced in the summer of 2007, and it is Bills Khakis' most luxurious (and most expensive) khaki. The fabric includes 2% Elastane (the other 98% is cotton), making them both wrinkle-resistant and stain-resistant.

Vintage Twills

Introduced in the Spring of 2008, the Vintage Twills are what you hope your 8.5oz Twills will someday feel like. They are pre-washed a few more times which makes them feel softer than the regular Twill. Since the Vintage Twills are new, we can't say for sure if they'll last a lifetime like the original 8.5oz Twill, but we’d be willing to bet they last at least half-a-lifetime.

Tropical Twills

The Tropical Twill was introduced in the Spring of 2008, and represent a rare move to incorporate some "technology" into their pants. These pants are for ultra-hot climates (which may be the entire planet soon!). At a mere 6 oz., the fabric is the 2nd lightest fabric behind the Cotton Poplin. But more importantly, the Tropical Twills incorporate Coolmax® to wick away moisture, keeping you dry & cool even in extreme humidity.